Lite om Italiensk matkultur

 


Livet i Italien snurrar runt matbordet. Italienarna älskar att tala om mat, beskriva mat, bjuda på mat, följa tv och radioprogram om mat, laga och äta mat. Man är kräsen och ställer stora krav på kvaliteten av råvaror och tillagning. Som svensk, uppväxt med falukorv och bruna bönor, är den italienska gastronomin ett sagolikt äventyr fylld av smaksensationer.

Det händer ofta att restauranger och trattorior inte använder skrivna matsedlar, som i sig är opersonliga och ofullständiga. Istället infinner sig krögaren personligen vid matbordet, med ett övertygande leende hos en som vet gästernas bästa, utan papper och penna i händerna, för han vet redan vad han tillslut kommer att få gästerna att beställa. Medan han rätar till bordsduken, som inte har behov av rättelse, presenterar han kökets utbud med stor hänförelse, beskriver samtliga rätter, dess ingredienser och tillagning på så innerligt sätt att det får aptiten att växa till himmelska höjder hos de redan utsvultna gästerna. De är nu övertygade om att köksmästaren ivrigt väntar på deras beställning och han är där bara för deras skull.
Sådan krog har alltid många stamkunder och i Italien, där restaurangerna överträffar bensinmackarna i antal, vilket inte vill säga lite.

Därför gäller tumregeln:                                                                       Välbesökt restaurang = bra, riklig mat – bra service
Tom restaurang= dålig mat och /eller dålig service

För icke italiensktalande gäster kan det visa sig frustrerande att inte få en skriven matsedel, för att med hjälp av ett svensk-italienska turistlexikon, i lugn och ro, försöka översätta menyns kluriga beskrivningar och få ta del av dess kostnader. För det kan ju annars resultera i att det hamnar rätter på bordet som man inte riktigt tänkt sig, tex ”trippa” ( komage), ”Pajata”( fårtarm) eller ”Coda alla vaccinara” ( kosvans), typiska romerska rätter som av italienarna anses vara delikatesser, och är en kvarleva från romartiden då allt togs om hand av de slaktade djuren, vilket kanske inte harmoniserar med den svenska aptiten för ögonblicket.

Flera trattorior använder sig av bestämda 3-4 rätters måltider med ett fast pris, inklusive husets vin som kan vara av hyfsad kvalitet, vilket i sig underlättar valet. Det kan bli både spännande och överraskande gastronomiska upplevelser.                                                                                                           Bra restauranger är inte alltid så noga med lokalernas utseende. Man ska alltså inte döma efter kulisserna. Det är ju till syvende och sist maten man ska njuta av, inte väggarna eller belysningen, som alltför ofta inte motsvarar en suktande aptit i intimitetens tecken.                                                             Men italienarna är där för att äta, mycket och gott, inte att vara intima. Vi får anpassa oss.

För turister borde det vara intressant att smaka den lokala ortens traditionella kök, som varierar från ort till ort. Naturligtvis måste man då vara av nyfiken natur, besitta en god aptit och vara mottaglig för nya smakupplevelser. Sen ska man aldrig ha bråttom och begära att maten ska stå på bordet ögonblicket efter att beställningen är gjord, för ska det vara vällagad mat ska det tillagas medan man väntar. Som ordet i sig beskriver: väl lagad.

Svenskarna älskar bröd i tid och otid, och stillar ofta hungriga magar med det hembakade brödet under väntetiden, innan maten står på bordet. Detta bör absolut avrådas! Bröd rövar bort aptiten och stjäl plats i magen, för det goda som komma skall. Dessutom är ju faktiskt brödet den billigaste ingrediensen i måltiden.

Några få exempel på lokala smakupplevelser från norra till södra delen av Italien:

”Lasagne albesi” från Torino,
”Baccalà alla vicentina”, fiskrätt från Vicenza;
Tiramisu, dessert från Veneto;
Den legendariska fiorentinska steken från Toscana;
Spaghetti med svart tryffel från Umbrien;
Mozzarella från Kampanjen;
Napolitansk pizza;
Cozze ripiene pugliesi, fyllda musslor från Apulien;
Citroner och citronlikören ”limoncello” från Sorrento;
Sicilianska cannoli, dessert från Sicilien.

Giuliana och jag har arrangerat resor till Italien för svenska resenärer i snart 20 år, och vi har alltid fäst stor vikt vid de kulinariska upplevelserna under resorna. I ett land där gastronomin är så berikad, varierande och smakrik som i Italien, anser vi att måltiderna är minst lika viktiga som hotellens standard och service, de lokala sevärdheterna, den sympatiska och underhållande reseledningen och, sist men inte minst, det trevligt resesällskapet.

Se gärna våra reseprogram för 2018:
klicka här

 

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